Changing of the guards in Athens

 One of the most unique experiences we have seen is the changing of the guards in Athens. The Presidential Guards or Evzones, guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at the Hellenic Parliament building around the clock. They do this through the coldest winter night or hottest summer day.

Who can become an Evzone?

Evzones are an elite unit of the Greek army and it is a very high honour for a Greek guard to be selected for this special unit. Also called Tsoliades, the guards are extremely tall, handpicked according to their height. They must have excellent physical condition, stamina and strong character. A minimum of 1.9 meters (6’1”) is required, and they must have big feet, be disciplined and proud.

How long does it take to become an Evzone?

After the standard five month training for a conscripted soldier they follow a hard training regime for a further month to become part of this honorary unit. A large part of the training is exercises to keep the body and mind still. This is required because whilst on guard they must remain completely motionless and expressionless. While tourists are taking photos the soldiers must not even make a facial or eye movement. And then there is mastering the special ceremonial walk during the Evzones changing of the guard.

How frequently does changing of the guards occur?

The two Evzones change guard every hour on the hour, 24/7 and will each guard the tomb three times every two days. The Greek guards perfectly synchronised journey from the Presidential Guard building takes ten minutes and their movements are as unique as is their uniform.

When can I see the changing of the guards?

The best time to see the Greek guards is every Sunday at 11.00am. This is when there is a more complex Grand Change with a marching band where all Evzones ceremoniously march from their barracks. It was at this time we visited so were lucky to see the full parade as the crowd gathered in front of the Parliament building at Syntagma Square.  The guards are normally dressed in their traditional and historically meaningful summer or winter uniforms of Navy or Khaki. For the Grand Change or National holidays, special white uniforms are worn.

What uniform do the Evzones wear for the Grand Change?

The uniforms are as distinctive as their march. It includes a kilt like foustanella, a white pleated skirt. The skirt has 400 pleats to represent the 400 years of Ottoman occupation and uses 30 meters of white fabric. The foustanella is worn with a Ypodetes, a white shirt with very wide sleeves. The phemeli, a black waistcoat, is the most difficult to create. It features designs of tradition and folklore importance, embroidered in white and gilt thread with yellow stripes to indicate military rank. These take one month to make.

Around their waist they will wear Krossia, a blue and white fringe, colours of the Greek flag and a black leather cartridge belt with a bayonet holder. The phareon, the Evzone’s woollen cap has the national emblem on the front and is red, symbolizing the blood shed during the War of Independence. It has a long black silk tassel representing the tears shed by the Greeks during the years of Turkish occupation.

The uniform is worn with two pairs of white woollen stockings and black silk tasselled knee garters. The tsarouchia, the traditional big red shoes are made from calf leather and weigh 3.5 kilos each. The toe turns up to a point which is covered with a huge black silk pompom. The heavy clogs are put together with over 100 cleats, designed to assist in the Greek terrain and help to steady the march across polished marble paths during marches.

How long does it take to make the uniform?

At the tailor’s department of the Presidential Guard training camp each handmade uniform takes 80 days to create. It takes ten specially trained craftsmen to painstakingly embroider the intricate details. Three or four men in the shoe making department at the camp are trained in the craft to make the world famous clogs.

The Grand Change

Performed in slow motion, the changing of the guards involves intricate movements and is highly stylised. This is to preserve the guards circulation after standing completely still for one hour and is fascinating to watch. They synchronise their goosestep-like stride, slow paced and elaborate. Moving with stiffened legs raised high, legs flicking straight out in slow motion, front then back, striking the ground forcefully with the right foot, whilst swinging arms high.

On arriving at the post a guard in regular uniform meticulously checks and adjusts the two replacement guards’ uniforms. The pleats, garter and tassels are all inspected to see they are in place. The Evzones then move into place and the current two guards march out.

We were in Athens as part of our Grand Mediterranean cruise. If you are in Athens we would strongly suggest you time your visit to coincide with the pageantry of the changing of the guards. The grand change is one of the most ceremonious, stylised changing of the guards to witness, full of pomp and ceremony. Absolutely a must see, the ceremony is short but very impressive.

We’d love to hear your thoughts. Have you seen the changing of the guards in Athens?  Did you think they were impressive?

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