What to do in Keelung

Keelung is a real hidden treasure in Taiwan being rich in both culture and heritage. Situated  just north of the capital Taipei, Keelung is a shipping port in a sheltered harbour surrounded by mountains. It offers a lot of things to do like exploring fish markets, islands and other seaside sights.

Developed in the early 17th century as a military and commercial trade city for the Spanish, Dutch and Qing Dynasty, the Japanese arrived late 19th century further developing the port for trade. The Keelung port, by 1984 had become the 7th largest container port in the world.

Most people on their first visit to Taiwan gravitate towards the capital, Taipei, but don’t overlook Keelung, on the northern most tip, 30km away. By tourist standards, Keelung is a quiet city with a population of around 300,000 and a great place to get the local flavours of a small town. If you like cities that are off the tourist trail and need a break from the crowds, then Keelung is a nice place to be.

The small, walkable area of Keelung City is easily accessed from the port, the adjacent train station or from the large number of hotels in the area. When exploring on foot be sure to pack an umbrella as Keelung is known as the ‘rain port’ and averages 214 days of rain a year.

The best way to get to learn about a culture is sharing a meal and seasoned travellers know one of the best parts of travel is trying new food. Taiwan has strong traditional roots and is filled with a fascinating culture yet has created a thoroughly modern society which is very evident in the Taiwanese cuisine. Night markets are a great way to get to know a new culture.

The heart of Keelung, about a 15 minute walk from the inner harbour, is Miaokou Night Market, one of the most famous markets in Taiwan. Miaokou means temple entrance and became known for food during the Japanese era when the merchants began selling snacks at Dianji Temple. Located on Rensan and Aisi roads and the alleys off these main roads Miaokou is a food focused market perfect for inexpensive, delicious seafood.

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Right in the middle is Dianji Temple, the centre of faith of Keelung citizens, built in 1873. With its remarkable architecture, this large, bustling temple is busy with devotees offering prayer and burning incense, yet somehow retains a simple and solemn style. The temple enshrines Kin Kaizhang from the Tang Dynasty. The elaborate shrine features intricate carvings and colourful paintings and is well worth a visit.

The Miaokou food stalls offer a fun experience with a variety of food. But don’t think is just a night venue. We visited near lunchtime and it was very lively with many different food stalls. It’s fun to be able to see food being prepared and try such a variety of food right in the middle of the shopping district. The streets are lined with tables and stalls with lots of people eating. Lots of the food was unfamiliar to us with a variety of seafood and traditional local dishes available in this vibrant market.

Miaokou is well known for its diversity of Taiwanese delicacies, so make sure you bring a good appetite. We were told a lot of local foods that are famous here are paopaobing, pao pao ice shaves, dingbiancuo, quanjiafu yuanxiao sweet sesame dumplings and a local desert, malao. But the one every local will tell you to try is the fried sandwich, a fried sweetened dough with vegetables and mayonnaise.

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We tried the Fried fish cakes, the middle was soft and chewy and the outside crispy serviced with a sweet sauce.

The markets are not huge and not unbearably crowded, but it is lively. It is definitely a food focused market, and the most popular food stalls are identified by the queues. The markets cover a few blocks where you can eat and walk like a local. Explore the permanent kitchens with an extended street front and restaurants, for those serious about eating food the same way it was prepared 50 years ago. In the mix of food stalls, both permanent and mobile, sample and enjoy a variety of delicious foods a reasonable prices. The eateries servings are sized so you can try a couple of different places before filling up. This is the best place to savour authentic Taiwanese cuisine, see majestic architecture and experience how people live their daily life.

Zhongzheng Park is another popular landmark in Keelung, also known as Qianshan Park, and is the largest park in Keelung.. Accessed from Shoushan Road by climbing up dozens of steps, once at the top it is very scenic with views to watch across Keelung Harbour. Set on the side of Dashawan Mountain, the park has colourful temples, shrines and the focal point, a large white statue of Guanyin Buddha, the Goddess of Mercy and two giant lion statues. Carved in stone, the majestic and towering statue sits on top of the hill, facing the sea. She is the biggest Goddess statue in Southeast Asia and inside is a stairway. You can walk inside the 22.5 metre statue which has cutouts to take in the fabulous views across the harbour.

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Zhuputan Temple is the most impressive temple in Keelung and one of Taiwan’s most important religious sites. The three story main hall has a very characteristic style and can be seen from the harbour and almost any point in the city. The temple is not a place of worship and constructed as the venue for the annual Zhongyuan Festival, held 15th July. The festival, dating back to 1851, includes a huge lantern procession, and attracts thousands, uniting the community, bringing peace to Keelung.

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The second level of the park is accessed close by to Maiokou markets, near the Xiner parking lot, where you’ll see a huge set of stairs. When you arrive at the top you will be at Chung Cheng Park and Martyrs’ Shine, a Buddhist library and children’s play area. Martyrs’ Shrine worships ancestors and sacrificed martyrs. During the Qing Dynasty and at the beginning of the Japanese colonial period the mountains close to Chung Cheng Park was called Little Keelung Hill. In 1911 Japanese Government built a temple originally named Keeling Kotohira Jinsha, in 1914 it was renamed Keelung Jinsha and is still today referred to as Jinsha Top. When the city restored its appearance after the war, it name changed to the current Martyrs’ Shrine.

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Another place to see is Khóo Tsú-song Old Mansion, an old crumbling house that was built on a hill with a beautiful scenic view of the city in 1931. We found the street with stairs that lead to house, but was not feeling energetic enough to climb up, and up and up all the stairs reach it. Reluctantly we continued walking, instead of climbing the stairways leading to the house, formerly owned by a Taiwanese notable. The historical building has been abandoned for over 30 years and is now in ruin due to disrepair and weathering, as the 2nd floor now has no roof. Built from red brick walls, the house has a typical Fukien architectural style still found in Taiwan. It is said a visit to old mansion is respite from the busy streets below.

Walking around all the streets and along the winding, hilly paths you’ll possibly get lost at some point. But it’s an interesting area to wander around and you’ll eventually find your way back. It’s interesting to see the contrasts in Keelung, from the colourful buildings, grubby industrial parts of the city, contrasting with clean, bright yellow taxis waiting to take tourists around.

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Keelung is an interesting city and its easy to get away from typically touristy areas and explore the city streets, some interesting back streets and enjoy the fabulous food. Most people arrive into Keelung by bus, train or via the port and the arrival point, Keelung Maritime Plaza  does not create the best first impression of this city. Wandering aimlessly gives a totally unique perspective and allows you to see beyond the initial grimy outlook and discover the hidden beauty.

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After spending time roaming around the city on foot, up and down stairs, and through narrow streets you may want to stop and try the ubiquitous bubble tea. The mixture of fragrant black tea, milk and chewy jelly that was first created in Taiwan is now the quintessential Taiwanese national drink. Created in the 80s brewed green or black tea was sweetened with sugar syrup, frothed and chewy tapioca balls added, resulting in peart milk tea, known today as bubble tea.

I suggest you walk around the city, immerse yourself in the local culture, you won’t be disappointed.

Have you been to Keelung night markets? What was your favourite dish?

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