Pinnacles – a road trip from Perth

Living in Western Australia we get to experience an extremely beautiful state full of incredible landscapes. One such place is the Pinnacles, located in Nambung National Park about 2 hours north of Perth. The Pinnacles desert is one of Australia’s most unique and fascinating natural landscapes and simply breathtaking. Seeing the ancient limestone formations that punctuate the otherwise flat and barren plain of the Nambung National Park is one of the things to add to the top of your WA holiday bucket list.

Road trip, Perth to Pinnacles

Leaving home at 3pm is not the usual time to head out on a Pinnacles road trip, but we were soon on our way along the scenic Indian Ocean Drive to the Pinnacles. Our plan was to head straight from Perth to the Pinnacles, as we wanted to photograph one of Western Australia’s most iconic landscapes at sunset. The drive is on sealed roads and the only thing to be cautious about is Perth is left hand drive and the closer you are driving to sunset the more likely you are to encounter kangaroos on the road, which can be fatal if you strike one. Despite being winter, we knew we’d arrive with some late afternoon sunlight and enough time to explore a little of this stunning location. When we arrived, these spectacular formations did not disappoint.

Pinnacles Desert, Nambung National Park

The awe of the scenery is immediate, we stare at the eerie, landscape. It is unusual, almost alien, but oh so beautiful. The sight of these ancient guardians of the desert, known as Rock Stars in the Outback, is truly astounding. Many stand as high as 5 metres and driving around the 4km circuit we pass fields of limestone relics that were scattered as far as the eye can see. These limestone pillars protrude from the sand and look like shards of honeycomb.

The weathered rock spires were formed about 25,000 years ago. Over time the sea receded and the strong coastal winds exposed the geological formations. In some parts of the desert there is low scrub present and in other parts a desolate landscape prevails.

The Pinnacles desert at Nambung National Park covers an area of 190 hectares and is around 60 metres above sea level. The Pinnacles has a true desert landscape and is the most famous natural wonder of Western Australia.

Driving tracks and Walking trails

I can’t help but be impressed by the myriad of structures all carved by nature. There is a scenic driving track as well as a walking track which allows you to get an up close and personal view of these spectacular formations. Despite the desert like terrain it is not necessary to have 4WD as the track is compact enough to be accessible to regular vehicles. The route is clearly marked by rocks to avoid tourist deviating off the track and there are ample designated parking spots to get out along the way to explore and take photos. You can continue the circuit as many times as you wish.

There are two loops, providing great views of the landscape and admire the desert views. Accessed along the Pinnacles Walk Trail and the Desert View drive is the Pinnacles Lookout. From here there are nice views looking back toward the ocean.

A few other tourists present, who like us, were taking in the last of the day’s sunlight to enjoy the beauty and atmosphere. The sight of this area during the golden hour adds another dimension and did not disappoint. The colours, textures and variation of size and density gave each vista a unique perspective.

Some were coarse and hollow whilst others were dense. Some were smooth and appeared to be layered and others were jagged and light in colour. Of course some were tall, others weren’t but the overall feeling was desolate, like we were isolated and amongst the first to see this spectacle.

We can understand why people compare this area to being on the moon as it is an interesting sight to behold, especially in the late afternoon with the shadows being cast. The view looks like something from a science fiction movie. The lunar-like Pinnacles form a most unique and fascinating natural landscape and provide wondrous photo opportunities. This is one place you just have to visit at least once in your lifetime.

Once the sun had gone down we took a short drive, into Cervantes. Some choose to stay and stargaze until the park closes at 9:00pm. Cervantes is a fishing town, known for its rock lobster industry. If we had arrived earlier in the day we could have taken a self-guided audio tour of a live lobster processing plant and had lunch at the biggest attraction in Cervantes township, the Lobster Shack, but there is always tomorrow. Right now it was time for us to get a meal and book a room for the night.

Pinnacles Edge Resort

We came the Pinnacles Edge Resort on Aragon Street and went in to enquire. Being late in the day we were offered a discount for a Studio room, paid and made our way to the room. Up the stairs to our upper storey room, it was simple, functional and clean. The rate included free parking, in-house movies, wireless internet hotspot, LCD TV and kitchenette. The room has a queen size and single bed so can easily accommodate 3 people.

But the best part of choosing here to stay was the Europa Anchor restaurant. We were impressed with the menu where the chef sources seasonal, local produce. For entrée we had several choices including Duck & Cranberry Steamed Buns, Trio of Ravioli and a Seafood tasting plate which included chili mussels, salt & pepper squid, grilled scallops, chili garlic prawns, battered barramundi and tempura lobster. We chose to share the seafood platter.

Mains included more freshly house made pasta, like roast pumpkin & parmesan gnocchi, western rock lobster tortellini & garlic prawns, a tempting Thai red curry cobb and a western rock lobster platter which included grilled or mornay lobster, a selection of seafood, chips and salad. I chose the tortellini and Steve ordered the platter and again we shared both. The house made tortellini was silky and filled with a generous portion of perfectly cooked rock lobster. The platter was outstanding, half a moist and flavoursome lobster mornay, with a selection of scallops, prawns and barramundi. The experience to remember was the local Western Rock Lobster, simply delicious. With fresh, tasty lobster cooked to order who needs the commercial, touristy crowds of the Lobster Shack?

There is no better way to finish a meal than desert, Steve had a trio of house made ice creams and I had a lemon, marshmallow parfait which Steve came to the rescue to finish for me.

Sunrise at the Pinnacles

On waking at 5am we returned to the Pinnacles early. Our plan was to catch a glimpse of the beauty as the sun peaked over the horizon and the first rays of the day kissed the barren landscape. I loved the way the shadows radiated off the face of the pillars and the ever-changing light added another dimension.

Having arrived very early, just before the sunrise and were the only ones there. I can’t describe the atmosphere, being the only ones present, the stark beauty of the area, only the footprints in the sand from the day before clearly show the popularity of this amazing location.

I can see why this area is one of Western Australia’s most photographed places and a must visit place in WA. It’s a unique, natural wonder one that is eerily beautiful and something to add to your bucket list of things you must do in WA. Clearly the other 250,000 visitors a year heading to the amazing Pinnacles Desert confirm my thoughts that this area known for its beautiful and striking limestone formations is truly stunning.

The sunlight changes the views and the shadows of thousands of limestone pillars rising out of the bright yellow sand is a sight to see. When it is high, the light is bright and casts itself on the yellow, golden sand and rocks. As the sun sets, the view softens, a pink hue appears and long shadows create a mystical landscape offering stunning photographic moments.

Bucket list moment, sunrise at the Pinnacles is truly spectacular. If haven’t seen this put it on your list.

Discover the Pinnacles

This is a place that I always find both fascinating and spiritual, no matter how many times I see it, regardless of the time of day, or season in the year. I’ve been here during the blazing heat of summer and in winter after some heavy rains in the area. I’ve visited in the middle of the day, when the sun is high and at sunrise and sunset and with every visit it feels like you are walking on the surface of the moon.

The yellow sands against the bright blue skies and stark relief of the pinnacles against the backdrop of sand dunes creates ever changing moods as the sun ripples over the sand.

Surrounding the graded loop road that passes around the thousands of columns, poking out of the desert sands, the eerie pinnacles punctuate the otherwise flat and barren plains of the Nambung National Park.

Times to visit the Pinnacles

Our suggestion is when you go and see the Pinnacles during the day, go off and see some of the other surrounding sights or head off for some dinner, then return. Because wow! To see the Pinnacles as the sun goes down and then lit by the moonlight is just wonderful. It is magical sitting amongst the Pinnacles, with your car lights off, you can see every star in the sky shining brightly. It feels like they are shining just for you.

Arriving late afternoon and returning for sunrise the following day we never had the opportunity to go through the Pinnacles Desert Discovery Centre. The interpretive Discovery Centre teaches about the history of the area, about the region’s biodiversity, and the geological processes that created this natural wonder and identifies the various flora and fauna from the area. But there is always next time.

We could have waited for the Discovery Centre to open at 9.30am but decided to head off. The Discovery Centre is open 9.30-4.30 but the trails are open 24/7 every day of the year. Entry is $12 per vehicle and if unattended there As we left the track and got back to the main carpark for the Discovery Centre we came across two kangaroos, one with a joey in her pouch. They were enjoying the peace and quiet before the tourists arrived, eating the dew covered grass in the morning sunlight.

The township of Cervantes

With that thought, we made our way back to the hotel for some eggs benedict for breakfast. After brekkie and checking out we took a quick look around town.

One of the first things we noticed across the road from the motel was a quirky zebra crossing, two zebras facing each other.

There is a general store, petrol station, motel, tavern, liquor store, takeaway food place and a caravan park. The RAC Holiday Park has a beachfront location and has a range of accommodation options including camping sites, to powered caravan sites and brand new poolside villas.

Cervantes was named after the 19th century sailing ship from the novel Don Quixote, Miguel de Cervantes and most street names have a Spanish influence. The ship was wrecked off Thirsty Point in 1844 and elements of the wreck can be seen throughout the town. Opposite our hotel is the Europa anchor retrieved from the ship.

At the entrance of the town is a Don Quixote-esque wind vane sculpture, a metaphor for the urban legend of how Cervantes got its name. Depicted are Don Quixote, his faithful squire Sancho Panza on his donkey Dapple and the ship Cervantes. Further along the road into town we saw a giant Dhufish sculpted from recycled agricultural materials by the Cervantes Men’s Shed. The sculpture reinforces the importance the fishing industry had in the development of the town.

Thrombolites & Stromatolites at Lake Thetis

Just out of town we stopped at Lake Thetis, one of the few places in the world to shelter marine thrombolites and stromatolites. We walked around the edge of the lake looking at the living fossils, formed by organisms similar to the earliest forms of life on earth. These communities of thrombolites and stromatolites have survived for thousands of years, formed by bacteria in the lake’s high saline waters.

Stromatolites are a build up of layers of microbes whereas thrombolites are clusters of cyanobacteria and look like large grey cauliflowers. Despite being over 3,500 years old these are some of the younger stromatolites found in Western Australia.

This small, seemingly insignificant body of water has salinity levels one and a half times that of the ocean and houses these domed structures. These rocklike ancient living fossils which have no natural predators, look like a giant cow pad and are the oldest and largest living fossil known to man. Their greatest importance is that they contribute to oxygenating the earth’s atmosphere.

Grey Shack Settlement

On our way back towards Lancelin we noticed some bright turquoise water and decided to turn off and check it out. This is where we came across the beach at the little village of Grey. Grey is a small settlement of shacks on an amazing part of the coast. This area is a wonderful example of off the grid living.

Wind farm, Grass Trees and Canola Fields

Along the way we make a few stops along the way, first at a Wind Farm and a few stops take some photos of the wildflowers. A short distance past the Pinnacles turn off we come across Wanagarren Nature Reserve which covers 11,000 hectares and shares its border with Nambung National Park. We pull into a roadside bay and admire the panoramic view and beautiful grass trees. Along the way we pass many fields filled with brilliant yellow canola. The sight is stunning, I’ve never seen canola growing before, the rolling hills near New Norcia are ablaze with the vivid yellow flowers of canola.

Last stop, New Norcia

By the time we get to New Norcia, Australia’s only Monastic town, we realise the only way to see the old Flour Mill, St Ildephonus, St Gertrudes, and learn about the Deep Space Ground Station is to attend a tour. Unfortunately we are half an hour too late to attend the second and last tour of the day. Therefore we decide to have a bite to eat and keep moving. Unfortunately entry isn’t permitted at our final stop, a satellite tracking station a few kilometres south of New Norcia. The satellite plays an important part in space discovery and is monitored by the European Space Agency. But we will get to learn all about the satellite when we do the tour of New Norcia.

What an amazing day. For anyone new to our state, this daytrip offers a proper introduction to Western Australia with a visit to some famous sights. We passed through some quaint towns, saw the stunning Pinnacles Desert, living stromatolites, pristine beaches and sampled the local Western Rock Lobster. This area features a diversity of wildflowers at the right time of the year and is a mere 2 hours from Perth. If you are looking for a 14 day roadtrip from Perth that incorporates lots of fun, sightseeing and is educational then a Kalbarri roadtrip might suit you.

Have you taken a road trip and rediscovered the area you live in? Have you tried Western Rock Lobster?

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