The best of Melbourne

Melbourne is truly one of our favourite Australian cities, apart from our hometown, Perth. We recently went back for a short trip to rediscover the best of Melbourne.

Sure we could have spent some time exploring the Great Ocean Road, enjoyed a day sampling the Yarra Valley wines, boarded the historic Puffing Billy steam train for a ride through the Dandenong Ranges or discovered the delights of Phillip Island’s fairy penguins. But we chose to rediscover the dynamic metropolis and inner-city neighbourhoods and see why Melbourne was voted the world’s most liveable city for 7 consecutive years.

And if Melbourne is a great place to live, imagine how memorable a holiday in Melbourne would be. The culture, food, music and art are all big reasons why people fall in love with this city, all the ingredients for an unforgettable getaway.

We’d caught the red eye across with Jetstar which is a great way to travel if you have limited time. What defines a red eye? Sometimes known as midnight horror, it’s one that’s the last flight of the day leaving Perth destined for the eastern seaboard, which is short (ours was 3 hours) and changes time zones. We find these flights allow us to save a days’ leave, working all day, departing late, and arriving early, giving a full day to explore as soon as we land. Our touchdown was early Saturday morning, in time for an amazing red sunrise. What a welcome to this beautiful city. Because we’d arrived well before check in time we dropped our bags off and ventured out for breakfast while we waited for our room to be ready.

Collins Street

And there was no better place to start our rediscovery of the best of Melbourne than on Collins Street, Melbourne’s epicentre and Australia’s premier street. Running from Southern Cross Station on Spencer Street through to Parliament Station on Spring Street, an address on Collins Street places you on one of the bustling streets of Melbourne’s CBD with trams and hook turns, architecture, streetscapes, heritage and of course style.

Back in the day, before the Saturday football match started, ladies and gentlemen would be dressed to the nines, paving Melbourne’s way as a fashion capital, promenading the pavements of Collins, Elizabeth, Swanston and Little Collins Streets, mingling and chatting. ‘Doing the block’ was a pastime for fashionable, high society. Men in one direction, women in the other, smiling and bowing on the side walk, and Collins Street was the place to see and be seen. And here we were, retracing their steps, albeit with our camera and mobile phones in hand, walking with a friend, reminiscing and enjoying being seen on the best street of Melbourne, Collins Street.

InterContinental Melbourne The Rialto

For a memorable, authentic local experience we chose to stay near the heart of the laneways and attractions on Collins at the luxurious InterContinental Melbourne, the Rialto. This much loved Melbourne landmark on Collins Street is set in two grand buildings from 1891 with a beautiful Venetian Gothic façade. The five star luxury hotel began as two separate buildings that housed the famous wool stores and its offices and the modern interior has transformed the buildings to the 21st century, perfectly melding the old and new. The 10 storey glass topped atrium will take your breath away, as will the high ceilings, arches, ornate lead light windows and original brickwork.

Even though our hotel was within the free tram zone we ventured out on foot and made our way along Collins Street to the highlight, the Block Arcade.

The Block Arcade

The Block Arcade is a heritage shopping centre and one of Australia’s top 10 landmarks. Designed on a brief to make shopping a more ceremonious, upscale leisure pursuit and simulate Galleria Vittoria Emanuele in Melbourne’s sister city, Milan, the arcade is one of Melbourne’s most richly decorated interior spaces. Built between 1891 and 1893, formerly known as Carpenter’s Lane and running from Collins Street through to Elizabeth Street and Little Collins Street in a T configuration, the local shopkeepers petitioned to have its names change to the present, Block Arcade. Melbourne’s best loved shopping arcade was occupied by 15 milliners, 3 lace shops and a photographer and was richly decorated with mosaic tiled flooring and glass canopy with wrought iron and carved stone finishings.

Nowadays, the establishment is full of exclusive and bespoke shops like Haigh’s Chocolates, Rutherford Jewellers, the Art of Dr Seuss, Adriano Carbone – Master Tailor, The French Jewel box, Beechworth Sweets Co and many other renowned businesses whose classy style is befitting the Victorian prestigious theme of the premises. One of the main focal points of the arcade is walking on the elaborate, complexly designed mosaic floor under a huge glass dome.

Another original feature is from the first Kodak store, currently occupied by Wittners where they have preserved the original pressed metal ceiling.  The Singer Sewing Machine Company sold machines in their shop at the Collins Street entrance and ran sewing classes in the basement. It became a meeting place for women to spend time spend time out of the home and paved the way to being granted suffrage and was the first public space  with electricity and telephone. A beautiful ceiling mural was commissioned to attract customers and represent new technologies of the time. It included references to mathematics, chemistry, astronomy and medicine and incorporated the Singer logo and can be seen today in the L’Occitane boutique.

Hopetoun Tearooms

But for a true taste of the bygone Victorian era is Hopetoun Tearooms. Set up for the Victorian Ladies Work Association back in 1891 and one of the greatest treasures of the Block Arcade offering a splendid array of old-fashioned scones, sandwiches and mouth-watering cakes. Today it is probably Melbourne’s most photographed window and swarms of food lovers jostle for the best vantage point to get an instaworthy shot of the bulging window display of decadently decorated cakes and tarts on glass trays. Tourists patiently line up outside for a table to eat there and once inside this small room you are ensconced by the character and old world charm, oblivious to the outside world.

The tearoom walls are covered in a rich green wallpaper and the ceilings regally draped with green fabric. An impressive etched mirror on the back wall adds to the grandeur and sense of depth in the tiny space filled to the brim with patrons. The mirror was a luxury for ladies as they shopped, as mirrors were rare. It is cosy and refined with an impressive menu and truly my favourite place to avoid the inclement weather during winter in Melbourne.

Royal Arcade

From the Block Arcade we strolled through Royal Arcade to the Bourke Street Mall and stopped at the information centre to enquire about some walking tours. After collecting a brochure or two, we decided to check out the Lanes, Arcades and Street Art independently. Due to the inclement weather many of the rear accesses to properties in the larger streets were roofed as arcades, providing more space for shops. Others, like the Block Arcade are where 19th century Melbournians liked to promenade and be seen, or as it is known, do the block. It is an exquisite hive of activity with fascinating shops to explore along the intricate mosaic floors. Crossing over Little Collins we enter Royal Arcade which is the oldest shopping arcade in Australia and where since 1892 Gog and Magog strike every hour on the hour.

Bourke St Mall

Outside Melbourne’s GPO on Bourke Street we see a sculpture, the purse. What looks like nothing more than an oversized purse that’s been dropped is one of the city’s most unique forms of street seating. The ‘Public Purse’ reflects the surrounding bustling retail district perfectly.

At the other end of Bourke Street (on the corner of Swanston St) are three whimsy, life sized sculptures who are a tribute to Melbourne’s early pioneers, Batman, Swanston and Hoddle. Named ‘Three Businessmen Who Brought Their Own Lunch’, the wiry gents pay homage to Melbourne’s three pioneers, returning to the streets as pedestrians observing Melbourne’s development and society’s entrapment in the timeless motion of consumerism, despite having their feet firmly planted on the ground.

From there we took a short walk to what would have to be Melbourne’s greatest iconic building.

Flinders Street Station

One of the most recognizable train stations in the world with its distinctive arched entrance and green copper dome would have to be Flinders Street station. But it’s more than just a train station, it’s the heart of Melbourne and the busiest railway hub in all of Australia. Built in 1854 it was the first train station built in an Australian city and in 1926 became the busiest passenger station in the world and at 708 metres, the main platform is the fourth longest in the world. With the fixture in 1860 of nine clocks on the stations facade came the famous catchprase ‘meet me under the clocks’.

Originally manually operated, the railway officer would change times 900 times over an eight hour day, they are automated. Being a popular meeting point, in a late 80s refurbishment, the steps under the clocks incorporated heating. The station’s upper floors were purpose built to house a library, gym featuring a boxing ring and billiards room and a now derelict ballroom. A Children’s Nursery with three cot rooms, two play rooms, kitchen and rooftop playground was opened in 1933 but due to a polio outbreak in 1937 was closed.

Federation Square

Occupying one of the most prominent city blocks is a place to meet, celebrate, watch major sporting events or a quintessential Melbourne experience, to simply enjoy a good coffee. Federation Square, known for its unique architectural style is a place to be embraced. Designed with three shards framing the square, two are clad with angular metallic surfaces and the other in glass. A pinwheel tiling pattern is used in the precincts façade. Criticised for its similarity to a war time bunker with its army camouflage colours and damage to the heritage vista of the precinct, Fed Square was awarded the title of the World’s Fifth Ugliest Building. And if posing in front of edgy graffiti in Melbourne’s most celebrated laneway is your thing, then Hosier Lane, right across the road is the place for you.

Hosier Lane

Possibly the most famous graffiti laneway in Melbourne, Hosier Lane, opposite Federation Square is where all the self respecting grammers are busy snapping all its spray painted laneway glory. This laneway is not only ranked as one of the best in Melbourne, but also the world.

Look up, look around and look a little deeper, checking out every little bit where a creative mark has been left on almost every surface. Spend a while as the smaller, easily overlooked pieces can really astound.

For me, one of the best is still a mural I first saw on a trip in 2015 by Matt Adnate, a portrait street artist from Melbourne, who completed the 23 metre mural in 2014.

The Forum Theatre

Nearby on the corner of Russell and Flinders Streets is the gargantuan and eccentric theatre, The Forum. Built in 1928 the exotic arabesque dome, Moorish styled minarets, beautiful clock tower and Roman styled gargoyles have an unkempt appearance and the building’s weary façade is in need of a makeover. Despite the fatigued exterior and long gone spendour this gorgeous masterpiece still holds a mysterious appeal.  For decades the Forum Theatre was the best in Melbourne and an impressive venue for lovers of motion pictures and home to one of the largest organs in the world, a Wurlitzer 270. In the 1950s the organ was removed and in the 1960s the theatre split into 2 cinemas until it was officially closed and sold in 1985.

It then became was headquarters for the Pentacostal church and sadly it was not maintained. Rundown, resold and restored, 1995 saw the prestigious venue become an extravagant concert venue for a variety of live music by many renowned artists like Madonna, Katy Perry, Lily Allen and Harry Styles and home of comedy with the Melbourne Comedy festival being hosted their each year. Inside the outlandish interior consists of original mosaic tiled floors, an astronomical clock, a marble staircase and Greco-Roman style statues, beautifully lit decorative friezes and a twinkling blue ceiling.

ANZ Banking Museum

Not far along Collins Street from the hotel is Melbourne’s centre of financial activities, housing Victorian Gothic banks nicknamed Cathedrals of Commerce juxtaposed between shiny glass skyscrapers.

Melbourne is renowned for having extremes in weather conditions all in one day and if you are looking for somewhere warm and luxurious to step out of the weather then the ANZ Gothic Bank is the place to be. The building stands majestically on the corner of Collins and Queen Streets and as well as being a working bank, it is also a banking museum.

Built at the height of the economic boom in the 1880s the image portrayed is of prestige and strength. Despite the exterior being comparatively plain for a Gothic prestigious building, the interior is sumptuously decorated. The lavishly decorated ceilings have panels with toned pattern relieved with pure gold leaf. The centre of each panel has a shield representing the arms of England, Scotland and Australia and the arms of the bank. There are gilded spandrel openings, intricate cornices, bold friezes, massive iron columns and decorative pressed iron trusses. The Cathedral Room is beautiful, finished in white marble with 6 large columns (that took 30 horses to pull), arches, French marble dado a stained glass window and mosaic patterned floor tiles.

Chinatown

Whether you’re heading there for late night dumplings or a weekend dim sum, Melbourne’s vibrant Chinatown is a must-visit. The heady fragrance of dumplings and noodles drawers nearby theatre goers and weekend wanderers through the red neon lit arches at the entrance to Chinatown to the laneway and arcade noodle houses and top class restaurants. Melbourne’s Chinatown dates back to the goldrush days of 1850s and is the longest continuous Chinese settlement in the western world and the essential character and heritage streetscape has been well preserved. Amongst the fine dining and laneway noodle houses are Asian grocery stores, Chinese herbalists, bookstores and fashion boutiques, predominantly of Chinese ethnicity but cuisines like Japanese, Thai, Malay and Vietnamese also reside in this true Melbournian cosmopolitan precinct.

Shrine of Remembrance

Another great place to visit is the iconic landmark, the Shrine of Remembrance war memorial. This is one of Melbourne’s most important and meaningful memorials, where Australians gather to reflect and give thanks on ANZAC Day, honouring the service and sacrifice of Australian service men and women.

St Kilda

Vibrant, bustling, eclectic, whatever word used to describe St Kilda just make sure this lively and cosmopolitan area doesn’t elude you. A great time can be had in St Kilda, Melbourne’s popular beach suburb easily accessible by tram. Stay on the tram until the final stop and you’ll be in the areas famous Acland Street and if you look up you’ll spot some hip characters fiddling on the roof. Acland Street is closed to traffic (apart from trams) and home to several cake shops, some great restaurants and is full of colourful characters.

Food is more than sustenance and necessity, it is an experience, a time to set aside and sit, taste and enjoy and resisting this experience in Acland Street is not easy. This vibrant street is a mecca for those with a sweet tooth and one of the signature icons of St Kilda, well not one, but four icons that are a sweet temptation, four cake shops that are the best in Melbourne.

Sitting side by side Monarch, Le Bon, Acland Cake Shop and Europa  display rows of beautifully presented cakes, cookies, cupcakes and pastries still made to the original recipe back in 1934. Specialities would include Polish baked cheesecake, traditional Kugelhaupf and Crostoli and the area can get busy with people pondering over which one to choose.  It is such a St Kilda thing to do, to sit and while away the time enjoying great coffee, devouring a delightful gooey dessert, rich indulgent cake or delicious tangy tart.

Despite its decadent past as the ‘in’ seaside resort, St Kilda became quite seedy in the 1960s, home to prostitution, drug use and crime and has since undergone an image upgrade. It is now a place of extremes, full of interesting places from grungy hostels to fine dining restaurants, trams and sportscars, bohos, hipsters or movie stars. Yes I said movie stars, Monarch’s famous plum cake and Florentines have been temptations for Rachel Griffiths, Ben Mendelsohn and even Cate Blanchett and having heard about this place, Jerry Seinfeld sent his assistant in with his request.

Great shopping from hip and retro to high end and the heart and soul of diverse cuisine from around the world this immersive seaside playground is the place to visit.

Luna Park

Nothing epitomises St Kilda like Luna Park, Melbourne’s most recognisable landmark which opened in 1912 and retains the charm of yesteryear. A theme park on the beachfront in the middle of a city, it may be old and somewhat dated but it remains popular. Entry is via Mr Moon’s giant mouth and you can enjoy old fashioned thrills and spills and take a ride down memory lane on the oldest continuously operating wooden roller coaster in the world. The beautiful carousel built in 1913 is listed on the National Heritage Register and has 68 horses, 2 roman chariots and 36 beautifully hand painted cherubs.

Opposite is another landmark, the majestic Palais Theatre, home to live music, St Kilda bathes and further along St Kilda Pier. If you are looking for something different head to St Kilda on a Sunday there is a creative market on the Esplanade where you can purchase a quirky painting or windchime from re-purposed forks. You’ll also pass through Melbourne’s Grand Prix circuit at Albert Park on the way through and be close to the famous Brighton Bathing Boxes for an irresistible Instagram opportunity.

Queen Victoria Markets

Back in Melbourne, Queen Victoria Markets, known as Vic Markets has been in operation since 1878 and is a great place to grab a coffee and doughnut, then head to the deli hall and sample fine cheeses, smallgoods and snacks. The choice is endless with Dutch Pancakes, Turkish Borek and Gozleme or Italian antipastos. But it’s not all produce and mouthwatering treats, check out the clothing and jewellery, find yourself an authentic ramen bowl, pair of warm ugg boots or snap up a few souvenirs to bring home.

Victorian State Library

From there the Victorian State Library is close by and although it may seem boring to visit a library, this is a really lovely building with great history and some spectacular instagrammable shots to be had. Step inside Australia’a oldest library, opening in 1856 and explore a world of wonder with a collection of over 2 million books. Browse books, magazines and journals in the Redmond Barry Reading Room then be sure to enter the impressive domed La Trobe Reading Room. Once the largest reinforced concrete dome in the world, it is as high as it is wide.

Featuring beautiful balconies that encircle the domed room, navigate the room of grand proportions via lift or stairs to view from 6 different levels. Full of knowledge and mysterious charm, this is one place you wouldn’t mind being stuck inside working on an assignment, even if it’s a bright and sunny day.

Trams

The city is well planned and the public transport makes it very accessible, making you quickly feel at home. One thing we enjoyed in Melbourne that we don’t have in Perth was the trams.The free tram zone is a great way for tourists to move around the city. The zone includes any trams within the Flinders, Spring and La Trobe Street and Docklands boundaries.

As well as the free tram zone within the CBD there is a free City Circle Tram, number 35, a heritage tram that operates within a set zone. There is commentary along the way taking you past major attractions like Docklands, Old Treasury Building, Parliament House, Princess Theatre, State Library, Victoria Markets and shopping malls and arcades it runs from 10am – 9pm Thursday to Saturday and 10am – 6pm Sunday to Wednesday every 12 minutes and takes 50 minutes to do a loop.

Coffee Culture, Food Scene and Laneways

The city has great local culture, with its coffee, street art, laneways and trams. Melbourne is modern yet rich in history and a melting pot of cultures, food, music and art. With the choice of lip smacking delicious restaurants you’ll never get bored or run out of options for things to see.

Just a tram ride away (using a Myki card) from the CBD are some great foodie places like Carlton, Fitzroy and Collingwood, where you can try everything from all day brunch to a six course degustation and late night cocktails at one of the many buzzing food stalls, casual kitchens or hot dining destinations.

The coffee scene is synonymous to Melbourne. Between walking the alleys and lanes and exploring street art a good caffeine fix is not far from hand. The coffee culture grew from the Italian and Greek migrants in the 50s and 60s.

Brunch

Melbourne does Brunch well, a couple of hours catching up with friends or family over an eggs benny with salmon or smashed avo with a dusting of dukkah, a spritz of lime, topped with a poached egg, washed down with a flat white.

I enjoyed the best brunch ever at Humble Rays in Carlton, where it’s fun-loving, unpretentious and absolutely delicious. My order was French Toast Forever, a true work of art and the best breakfast dish I’ve ever eaten. The toast was filled with vanilla bean cream cheese, fried til it was hot and crispy, then piled with boysenberry ice-cream, persian fairy floss, seasonal fresh fruit with a dollop of double cream and sprinkled with walnut and almond crumbe.This is the best of Melbourne.

The good thing about Melbourne is its full of laneways, nooks and crannies with so many interesting places to explore. Every street has heaps of little alleyways dotted with things you don’t expect to find, bars, cafes, buskers and more. Each area is so diverse, you get a different experience from one to the next. Melbourne is multicultural, fun, vibrant, funky, it is an epicentre for sports, a foodie’s paradise and of course the coffee capital. Melbourne is all about discovery and you need to scratch the surface to get to know it. For every 10 minutes spent searching, you will find hours’ worth of things to do.

We thoroughly enjoyed our long weekend in Melbourne and can’t wait to go back and further explore the culture, the food, the music and the art.

What’s your favourite Melbourne laneway? Or is the food scene more your thing? Tell us about your favourite restaurant, cafe or meal?

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The authors travelled courtesy of Jetstar Australia

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